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Osona is a well-balanced comarca, close to both the sea and mountains of Catalunya, while at the same time offering visitors its own spectacular landscape and rich history.
It is divided up into five main areas: the capital Vic, at the centre; the Paisatges del Ter to the north, where the main feature is the River Ter; in the south is the Portes del Montseny, a plain that opens up into the natural park of Montseny; western Osona is dominated by the historic charm of Lluçanès; and fi nally the dramatic cliffs and valleys of Collsacabra are in the east. The county of Osona was fi rst created around the end of the eighth century CE, although at that time it only corresponded to the town of Vic and its immediate surroundings, and marked territories reclaimed from the Arabs. Wilfred the Hairy oversaw its repopulation in the following century, while Ramon Berenguer I incorporated Osona into the kingdom of Barcelona in 1054. Although today the majority of the county remains part of the province of Barcelona, there are three towns which actually belong to Girona (Espinelves, Vidrá and Viladrau). Osona has a strong industrial past, based around towns such as Manlleu, with textiles and metals two key products coming out of the area. However, it is also well known for its embotits (cured meats); botifarra, llonganissa and fuet from Osona are all excellent and ideal souvenirs from a trip there. Things to see Vic today is a bustling market and university town. The big square at its heart, the Plaça Major, is synonymous with Vic’s role as the commercial centre of the region, and the twice-weekly market (Tuesdays and Saturdays) held there is a key draw for visitors, with all manner of items on sale. Those looking to stock up on the local meat specialities should head down the Carrer dels Argenters, which runs off the east side of the Plaça Major. Here there are a good number of butchers, each selling a wide range of embotits. Anyone seeking a less fattening form of culture, the Episcopal Museum has a large collection of paintings and sculpture from the Catalan Romanesque and Gothic periods. Vic Cathedral is a mixture of styles, ranging from Romanesque to neoclassical, while the Roman Temple built at the beginning of the second century is another important town landmark. Lluçanès, in the north-west part of Osona, is dotted with historic villages, bridges and churches. Stone crosses at the edge of villages were traditionally placed there to ward off witches and guide shepherds, bandits and soldiers; nowadays they are more commonly used by ramblers and cyclists. The principal town in the area, Lluçà, has a castle whose one remaining window provides a view of the the Pyrenees, as well as the neighbouring circular Romanesque church of Sant Vicenç, one of the few that still stand in Catalunya. As the name would suggest, the Paisatges del Ter area owes much of its development to the River Ter. It both created the local landscape and provided an important resource that enabled industry to thrive here. Remains of fábriques de riu (river factories), at one time the economic force behind many villages here, can be seen on the banks of the Ter. The Industrial Museum of the Ter, itself housed in a former factory in Manlleu, is an ideal place to find out more about this aspect of Osona’s past. Other points of interest in the town include an arboretum, the industrial canal built in the 19th-century to help local businesses and theoctagonal bell-tower that is Manlleu’s symbol. The Ter region is also home to two significant historical landmarks: the Monastery of Sant Pere de Casserres, which dates back to the late 11th century, is one of the most important monuments of Catalan Romanesque architecture and was the only monastery of the Benedictine order founded in Osona; and the Castell de Montesquiu, which despite the name was a fortified house rather than an actual castle. Evidence of its existence dates from the eighth century and it is set in a large natural park. The Portes del Montseny is the gateway to the Montseny Massif, and features a wide natural diversity. In Viladrau is the Cultural Centre of Nature, providing additional information on local nature, focusing particularly on trees and water. The area also has Iberian remains such as the fourth century BCE wall of Turó de Montgròs in el Brull and those found in Pla de les Lloses in Tona. The abrupt plateau of Collsacabra and the Sau Valley create a special setting with cliffs, woods and rivers, and the area is dotted with small, picturesque villages, like Rupit and Pruit, with their cobbled streets and old houses. Folgueroles is the birthplace of poet Jacint Verdaguer and literary tours guide the visitor around Verdaguer’s haunts while listening to some of his work. The village of Tavertet, declared a Place of Cultural Interest, has important vestiges of Romanesque art, and spectacular views over the Sau Reservoir. Depending on the amount of water in the reservoir, it is possible to see parts of the town of Sant Romà (in particular, its 11th-century church) that was submerged during the construction of the reservoir in the Sixties. What to do Osona is ideal for many outdoor sports—flights in ultra-light aircraft or hot-air balloons are well-suited to the county’s geography and provide amazing views of its beauty from on high. Exploring its nature from a more down-to-earth perspective is possible via walking routes, mountain bike or horseback. If looking for a more active earthbound option, sports on offer include bungee jumping, archery and go-carting. For nautical sports, such as water skiing, canoeing and fishing, head to the Sau Reservoir. When to go The plain of Vic can get very cold at this time of year, so if heading there this month, make sure to wrap up warm. At the same time, this freshness can make it ideal for a long country walk around Tavertet or the Ter valley area, to blow away the cobwebs as spring approaches. Vic hosts its annual Setmana del Porc (Pig Week) in February, coinciding with the start of Lent and the day known here as Dijous Llarder or Dijous Gras (Lard or Fat Thursday). Workshops and stalls will be accompanied by a lot of pork-based food. What to eat Pork and its by-products may be the most emblematic food of the county, but Osona has much else to offer gastronomes. The truffle (trufa), a black mushroom that grows underground and is highly prized, and a wide range of bolets (Catalan mushrooms) including pinetell, rovelló, rossinyol, cep and fredolic are found locally, as are the white beans (mongetes) of the Collsacabra Mountains, characterised by their small size. For dessert, the pa de pessic de Vic (sponge cake) is worth trying as are the regional cheeses, curds, honey and jam. Where to stay Osona is an ideal place to find a quiet rural house for a get-away-from-it-all break. Just outside Vic, for instance, Torre Martí in Sant Julià de Vilatorta is a mid-20th-century house decorated with period antiques and featuring an excellent restaurant. British journalist Matthew Parris co-owns a centuries-old country house just outside Tavertet, L’Avenc, which has three holiday cottages available for rent and is an ideal base for exploring the Collsacabra countryside. And for when the weather warms up, Osona has seven campsites for those who enjoy sleeping in the open air. Comarca guide Agroturism Association of Lluçanès www.agroturisme.llucanes.net Agrotourism Association of Osona www.atroturismeosona.com Consorci de Turisme Paisatges del Ter Tel. 93 850 4915 www.paisatgesdelter.com Consorci de Turisme Vall de Sau- Collsacabra Tel. 93 852 2839 www.saucollsacabra.cat Consorci de Portes del Montseny Tel. 93 812 5712 www.portesdelmontseny.com Consorci del Lluçanès Tel. 93 888 0050 www.turisme.lucanes.cat Hotel Torre Martí www.hoteltorremarti.com L’Avenc www.avenc.com Oficina de Turisme de Vic Tel. 93 886 2091 www.victurisme.cat Osona Turisme Tel. 93 885 1715 www.osonaturisme.cat This article originally appeared in Costa Brava Resident magazine, February 2008
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